Resources for the Busty Woman and Tips for Everyone Who Wears a Bra | Part 1

Sunday 14 September 2014

After all that deliberation over whether to post my last post or not, I decided to do a kind of follow up post.

Why? Well, because I didn't want to come across as just whiny and irritating, I wanted my contribution to be useful as well.

Mostly because I didn't want it to be a lot of venting - I want it to be useful as well. I originally planned for this to be one post, but by the time I had gotten through my first section, I was already at 3000 words, so I thought I had better divide it into 3 parts! These three parts are going to be covering:

Finding Your Correct Bra Size

Shopping For The Non-Mainstream Bra Size

Tips For Dealing With Un-'Ideally' Shaped/Sized Boobs

Got it? Everybody excited? Then lets do this!!

Finding Your Correct Bra Size
Although this may sound a little silly and even if you are 120% sure you know your bra size, I highly encourage you to do this anyway. It's gonna take you 10ish minutes and it is going to really help you out. Especially if you have big boobs. And I'm talking anybody that's a D cup or bigger. But even if you're smaller than a D cup - don't skip this section! Because I reckon about 80% of you are going to be surprised at the size you find. Do you know why I think that? It's because approximately 80% of women are in the wrong sized bra. Imagine that! 80%. That's ridiculous. So let's get on to changing that number. :)

Right. First, you are going to need to ditch your shirt and get on your best fitting bra. Even, if you know it doesn't fit perfectly, that's okay - we'll deal with this is a minute. Next, grab yourself a tape measure and go stand in front of a mirror. Doing this in front of a mirror makes it way easier to check that the tape measure is level. Or alternatively, get a friend to do the measuring - but really, it's pretty much just as easy to do it yourself with a mirror for guidance. I'm going to break this down into 4 parts, the band size, the cup size, troubleshooting for bra shopping and the different bra styles available.

And before I start, I'm going to be working in UK sizes, because it's easier to do when working out your own size (you'll see why in a minute). If you have no idea of the conversions between UK and US and Australian and other sizes, then you're in luck because I've made you a nice table. :)



The Band Size
Your band size is the most straight forward part to determine, and way more important than most people assume. This is the part that should hold most of the weight of your boobs, not the straps. If it is too loose, you'll probably end up with neck and shoulder pain (especially if your boobies are large) and if it is too tight, you're gonna have trouble breathing properly.

In case you don't know, the band size is the number that comes before the letter, eg. the 36 in a size 36C. Wrap the tape measure around your torso, just underneath your boobs and make sure it is snug. Also, don't follow the band of your bra around your back. Instead, keep it level. A correct fitting bra has a band that is level all the way around and doesn't ride up at the back. If you're in the wrong band size, or your bra is old, your bra band will probably be curving upwards at the back, with the highest part of your band being where the back clasp is.

Source
Anyway, take that number, in inches, and round it to the nearest even number. And that's most likely your band size. If you were 28.5, you're probably a 28. If you were 33.6, probably a 34. And if you were dead set in the middle with a measurement like 31? Then who knows! Try both a 30 and a 32 although if you have large boobs, I would recommend you go with the smaller size as it just helps take some of the pressure of the neck and shoulders.

And if you are working in sizes that aren't UK sizes, just convert that number using my conversion table at the top.

See? Pretty easy, right?

The Cup Size
The cup size is the second half of your bra size and the part that you probably are familiar with. This is the letter that comes after the number, such as the DD in a 30DD or the B in a 34B. Unfortunately, the cup size is a little more difficult to determine because there is actual maths like adding and subtracting. Ugh....

Before we go on, we do need to go over a very important but often overlooked, disregarded and unknown fact abut cup sizes. Are you ready for this? Okay, so, cup sizes are relative. Say it with me, relative. This means that how big/small your cup size is is relative to your band size. This means that not all D cups are the same. Someone with a bra size of 28D has much smaller boobs than someone with a bra size of 38D. While in relation to their rib/band size, both have D cup breasts, but because the 38D woman is much larger than the 28D woman (5 whole sizes bigger) her boobs have more square mileage, if that makes sense.

So your cup size is all about how big your chesticles are in relation to your body. Understand?

Also, for those whose new band size is smaller than what you have previously been wearing, be prepared to find out you have more boob than you thought you had. :)

Source
To determine your cup size, what you need to do is to grab your tape measure again and measure at the widest point of your boobs. For most people, it'll be about where their nipples are. Now this bit can be harder than measuring underneath your bra because you've got to hold you arms higher and the tape measure is higher and if you're in a t-shirt style bra the tape measure will probably keep slipping down. But persevere (and don't be afraid to ask a friend to help). Remember also to hold the tape measure level at the back and keep it snug. But don't hold it too tight! You don't want to get a squeezed boob reading. :)  If you know you're in a too small bra and are experiencing a lot of spillage from the top/sides, ie the 'four-boobed look', feel free to add an inch or two to your measurement, depending on how much you are spilling out.

Write down your final number and we're gonna call this the bust measurement.

Right, now for the calculations. :) As an example, I'm going to put in some random measurements, just so it's easier to show you what you have to do. You need to take your bust measurement (the one you just took) and subtract your band measurement from it.

Bust Measurement - Band Measurement = Number

Using actual measurements as an example, it looks like this:

38 - 32 = 6

We are now going to use this number to discover the cup size.


As you can see, my imaginary measurements give a difference of 6 inches, meaning that my imaginary person probably has a bra size of 32E.

However, here's the problem. After about an D-DD cup, it's actually a little bit hit and miss, particularly with the smaller band sizes. Case in point, me. I have a 11 inch difference between my band and bust size but I stopped being an H cup a long time ago. I'm actually a JJ/K. So basically, I'm really sorry for all the E+ women out their, but take the size given by my chart as a starting point and work up from there! :)

(Anybody surprised by their new size? Let me know in the comments)

Troubleshooting for Bra Shopping
Okay, so now you've got your handy-dandy new size and want to get some new bras. So you head off, grab some bras and charge to the change rooms with new found purpose and intent.

But oh no! When you get there, things stop going quite so smoothly!

Never fear, I am here to help! Let's go over some things that make for a ill-fitting bra and what means you've found a keeper. :)

Band Doesn't Sit Level at the Back (ie. It Rides Up)
This is easy - you're band size is too big. Grab a smaller band size (but don't forget to go up a cup size - get a 32D instead of 34C).

Centre Panel Sits Away From Body
The centre panel is the little thing between the cups and is kind of triangular shaped. If this isn't flush against your skin, it means you need to go down a band size and probably up a cup size. So, if you're in a 38C, try first and 36D and if that doesn't fix it completely or it looks like the cup size is too small (more on that in a minute) try a 36E.

Band Lifting up or Coming Unhooked when you lift your Arms up
Band size is too big. Get a smaller one but don't forget to go up a cup size. :)

Band Digging in or Feeling like your Air Supply is Limited
Go up a band size. It's a bra, not a torture device! :) Equally, if when you take the bra off at the end of the day you have a lot of red marks and imprints from your bra, the band is too small. Remember to go down a cup size when increasing your band size (ie from a 28FF go to a 30F). However, if you have big boobs and it's a new bra, you might have to deal with a little bit of pain of the first couple of days while you break your new bra in. Which sucks, but it'll save you from having neck and shoulder pain in the long run.

Excess Boob Spilling Over the Top or Sides of Bra
Your cup size is too small. Go up a cup size and maybe try a different style. Try a bra with more coverage over and around your boobs (ie full coverage style).

Wrinkles in the Cup
Your cup size is too big. Go down a cup size and/or maybe try a bra style with less coverage. Try a demi, balconette or plunge bra (more on these later).

Straps Leaving Red Marks or Imprints In Your Shoulders or a Sore Neck and Shoulders
Straps are too tight. Better loosen them or you are going to end up with some really sore shoulders and neck. If you feel that doesn't give you enough support, try going down a band size so that more of your boob weight is being held by the band. This is a particularly common problem for large breasted women (ie DD+) or small-banded women (ie 32 and down)  because a lot of mainstream shops don't stock their correct style so they are forced to get a larger band size, which in turn forces them to have the straps tighter.

Bra Styles
Is anyone a little confused by the bra style names I keep throwing around? Balconette? Demi? Plunge?

If so, that's fine - there is a lot of different styles and if you're not used to them it's a lot confusing at first! Let's start with the most common ones first and work out from there, shall we?

Push-Up Bra by Warner's
Push-Up Bras
This is probably the bra style that you are most familiar, even if you haven't ever worn one yourself. It's pretty self-explanatory, it's a bra style that has padding at the bottom in order to push your breasts up so as two give the appearance of more boobage and cleavage. This style is great if you want to make your boobs look bigger and/or need to fit into a dress that's the tiniest bit roomy in the top.

Eve Bridal Bra by Panache
Strapless Bras
Again, even if you've never worn one yourself, you've probably heard of a strapless bra. It has no straps (although some may come with removable ones) but I wouldn't recommend you wear your strapless bra as a regular bra on a regular basis. Most strapless bras (or at least the good ones) will have a clear plastic band that goes all the way round the top of the bra on the inside. This helps the bra to grip your skin and stay up. If your bra does come with removable straps, you can convert the bra to a halter-neck style by taking one of the straps and attaching it to both of the front hooks. This style can be worn be all breast styles, but unfortunately, you won't find strapless bras in anything bigger than a GG. Although, saying that, if anybody does find a strapless bra in a 28JJ or 28K please let me know!!!!

D+ Max Sports Bra by Shock Absorber
Sports Bra
As most large breasted women will know, a sports bra is necessary when doing any serious exercise. If fact, I know some women that wear their sports bra as an everyday bra, just because it's the only style that gives them enough support. There are two styles of sports bras - encapsulation and compression. Compression bras used to be the sports bra of choice and works pretty much as you'd think - it's really tight and squishes your boobs really tight against your body. It also has no defined cups. For smaller and medium breasted women, this might be enough, but high bounce exercisers (running, netball, basketball, aerobics etc) and large breasted women will definitely need an encapsulation sports bra. This bra has separated, defined cups and so supports your individual breasts from above, the sides and squishes them close to you.

Kiss Kiss Bra by Bravissimo
Plunge Bras
This again is a pretty common style where the centre panel is very small and the sides of the cups come all the way down to the band before joining together. It emphasizes your cleavage and is great for wearing with low-cut or plunging tops or dresses. It's a great style for most breast sizes, but I'd probably stay away from it if you have really large boobs because you may find you boobs have a tendency to fall out the middle of the bra or you have to keep stuffing your boobs back into the cups has you move around and go about your general daily activities.

Melody Full Cup Bra by Panache
Full Coverage
This bra style has cups that go all the way up and around your boobs, ie - complete/full coverage. The straps sit straight across the shoulders. This style is great for anyone that likes that extra coverage and large-breasted women as it helps give that extra bit of security that thing aren't going to start flopping out and around under our shirts! :)


Rocco Charm Bra by Bravissimo
Demi/Half Cup
This style, like a plunge bra, has cup sides that come down quite low between your boobs, but the cups are cut much lower, resulting in much less coverage. The straps are also fairly wide set, making this a perfect bra for wearing under low cut tops with wide necklines. This style is most suited to small to medium breasts because of the small nature of the cups, but if you have large boobs and this is the style you like, then go ahead!


Sophie Soft Cup Bra by Panache
Soft Cup/Underwire Free
As the name suggests, this bra has no underwire, making it perfect for those that dislike wearing bras with underwire or have an underwire allergy or like to wear a bra to bed. It's also great for the summer because the lack of underwire means less sweat! :) However, this isn't a great style for girls with big boobs has it just won't provide you with the support you need.


Minnie Bra by Cleo
Balconette
This style has fairly full coverage cups and very wide set straps, making it a great alternative to the demi style for wearing under wide necklines. It has quite a large centre panel and the cups are cut almost straight across, giving creating more of a shelf with the top of the breasts (hence the name). This is currently my favourite style as it provides more coverage than a demi or plunge, but still gives nice cleavage. It's great for all boob sizes


Porcelain Plunge Bra by Panache.
Perfect example of how what makes a t-shirt bra is that shiny, smooth fabric, not the style
T-Shirt/Moulded/Seam Free
This, for me, refers to more of the fabric choice of the bra than the bra style itself, but it kind of is a bra style and it's really important so I'm going to list it here. It basically refers to any bra style that has very few seams, if any, and is made from that kinda slippery, shiny, moulded fabric. It's an essential for any bra-wearers wardrobe as the seam free appearance means it's great to wear under t-shirts or other such shirts. It can come in any style and so, everyone should have one! :)

Aaaaaand I think I'm done. I hope you all are feeling more educated about bra styles, fitting and sizes. If you have any questions, feel free to ask them in the comments and if you have any tips that I've missed or any general comments or anecdotes and stories of your own, please add them in the comments too. I have an endless supply of boob related stories, so I'd love to hear yours (the more weird and embarrassing they are the better!).

Please stay tuned for parts two and three, where we will be tackling the problems of where to buy non-mainstream sized bras and tips/resources for dealing with non-mainstream sized bras. I promise they will not be as massive as this post!

Hope to see you there!



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